Fez medina was on our bucket list. Having seen Bizarre Foods' Richard Zimmerman's take on one of the best-preserved medieval cities in the world, we too wanted to experience the thrill of journeying deep into Fez's bowl-shaped medina.
Once again we relied on Riad Laaroussa's recommendation for a guide to take us into the medina's belly and once again we weren't disappointed. Hamedo was a local. He had lived in the medina for some 40 years. Although he is retired, he still works as a professional singer. He has his own band and is quite the celebrity in this neck of the woods...
Did you know Fez medina is 50sq km? It has 11 main doors (gates or 'babs') and 9,500 alleys or streets. And there are many narrow alleys with low entries which stopped the 'bad guys' on horseback trying to attack those living in the medina during ancient times. It's a serpentine labyrinth where you undoubtedly will get lost if travelling solo. You can't get cars down the alleys either like the medina in Marrakech. In Fez the main mode of transport is on foot with produce transported with the help of donkey power. There are some motor bikes but very few. Some of the alleys are as wide as one person! Hamedo's passion for his medina was palpable. He wove stories of intrigue with factual snippets. He told us about the hinges on the cedar doors and how their intricate carvings earmarked home owner as wealthy, middle class or poor; we saw the 'kissing wall' alley where Hamedo once lived with its entry of around 1m 40 narrowing to 50 cm at the other end; he treated us to a private viewing of a riad currently undergoing major refurbishment to the tune of more than $200,000 euros, and together we wandered around Fez's tannery. Hamedo pointed out work currently being undertaken to preserve the medina...8 years have passed and there are 12 more to go. Walls have been braced to prevent them from crumbling, cedar doors have been sanded back to pristine condition. It's interesting to see how things would have looked before age took its claws to the buildings and he showed us alleys that have been re-paved but I'm not confident it is altogether a good thing? Perhaps a little bit of Fez's mystery disappears with each refurbishment? But how can you stop progress and it is important to preserve this incredible place for future travellers to experience.
Friday, October 25, 2013
Volubillis & Meknes
Riad Laaroussa arranged for one of their regular drivers to pick us up at Fez airport. He was a real find! His name is Reda and we luckily were able to book him for the day to take us to Volubillis and Meknes. Having experienced four weeks on a bus with 20 or so people driving from one end of China to the other, Monty&Me were keen to travel at our own pace. You see something you like? You can stop and take your time rather than being given a specific and limited time frame because you have to keep to an itinerary and travel deadlines.
Reda was absolutely charming. His dark cocoa coloured eyes and flashing white smile were a perfect complement to his easy going personality. Nothing was too much trouble for him...he went along with our 'flow'.
Thought to be the most remote outpost of the Roman Empire, Volubillis is an ancient settlement dating back to the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. The ruins are in the middle of the countryside. Well worth the time to drive there just to be able to walk under the towering arches, peer into the remains of Romans baths and marvel at the mosaics. We could have paid for one of the locals on sure to take us on a tour of the ruins but we were happy to wander at our own pace and soak up the history of it all. We met a couple from Scotland who were avid travellers and had visited this world heritage site before so it was fun to chat with them and share points of view.
After Volubillis we made a couple of stops (obligatory panoramic vantage points) before arriving at Meknes. Fascinating city. It was here we fell in love with kilim. This time we negotiated a price that included shipping it to Australia. Clever Monty&Me. Now all we have to do is hope that the kilim arrives home.
Note: Photos to be uploaded soon. Further details to be posted mid-November when access to the computer affords a speedy upload of images.
Reda was absolutely charming. His dark cocoa coloured eyes and flashing white smile were a perfect complement to his easy going personality. Nothing was too much trouble for him...he went along with our 'flow'.
Thought to be the most remote outpost of the Roman Empire, Volubillis is an ancient settlement dating back to the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. The ruins are in the middle of the countryside. Well worth the time to drive there just to be able to walk under the towering arches, peer into the remains of Romans baths and marvel at the mosaics. We could have paid for one of the locals on sure to take us on a tour of the ruins but we were happy to wander at our own pace and soak up the history of it all. We met a couple from Scotland who were avid travellers and had visited this world heritage site before so it was fun to chat with them and share points of view.
After Volubillis we made a couple of stops (obligatory panoramic vantage points) before arriving at Meknes. Fascinating city. It was here we fell in love with kilim. This time we negotiated a price that included shipping it to Australia. Clever Monty&Me. Now all we have to do is hope that the kilim arrives home.
Note: Photos to be uploaded soon. Further details to be posted mid-November when access to the computer affords a speedy upload of images.
Fabulous Fez
Talk about contrasts! Marrakech is nick-named the Red City and rightly so. The local clay dictates the colour of the buildings. Fez seems so clean mainly because their buildings are creamy-white in colour. If we had to choose between the two cities Fez squeezes in ahead of Marrakech. The pace seems calmer. However, it is important to note our impression of both cities is somewhat skewed because of Eid. The majority of the souks in Fez were closed which presented us with benefits - less people and less opportunity to spend money on needless acquisitions. The temptation to purchase a container and fill it with exquisitely coloured tajines, bowls and other assorted ceramic goodies was tempered by the lack of access to postage services because of the Eid holiday period - they were all closed. We stayed at Riad Laaroussa - a superb destination in the medina. Highly recommend to anyone and everyone. In the early hours of the morning we were greeted by the riad's porter who bundled our luggage into a 'barrow' and off we charged on foot down narrow alleys until we reached our riad. A wondrous journey that continued during our time in this ancient city.
(Photos to be uploaded later - iPad and Picasa still fighting with each other)
(Photos to be uploaded later - iPad and Picasa still fighting with each other)
Fez via Casablanca - a real 'pits' stop
Fes via Casablanca
Our journey from Marrakech to Fes was the pits! Royal Air Maroc should be called Royal Air Madness. No one gives a hoot about you. Don't rely on the flight schedule - keep checking boarding times. We nearly missed our flight from Casablanca to Marrakech and again from Marrakech to Casablanca. We also had to pay 50 euro for our 9.3kg carpet. We had hoped to ship it from Marrakech but due to Eid everything was closed - even though the DHL and FedX websites advised otherwise.
Our journey from Marrakech to Fes was the pits! Royal Air Maroc should be called Royal Air Madness. No one gives a hoot about you. Don't rely on the flight schedule - keep checking boarding times. We nearly missed our flight from Casablanca to Marrakech and again from Marrakech to Casablanca. We also had to pay 50 euro for our 9.3kg carpet. We had hoped to ship it from Marrakech but due to Eid everything was closed - even though the DHL and FedX websites advised otherwise.
Sunday, October 20, 2013
Last day Marrakech
The last day in Marrakech we took the opportunity of taking a Hop On Hop Off Big Bus Tour - about 290dh for two people (about $37 AUD). We saw all of the sites including the world famous golf course - Royal Golf of Marrakech (Big Bus Tour details to be posted later). We visited the Marjorelle Gardens - which thankfully weren't closed - it's a cooling oasis in the middle of Marrakech and a must visit even for an escape from the heat. Dinner at Pepe Nero was a highlight of our stay - this restaurant is highly recommended. We had a porter come and collect us from our riad and return us to our accommodation after our dinner. Fine dining at its best. Pay the porter 30dh (or more if your riad isn't near the restaurant) for his service.
Marrakech wrap-up
A couple of things I have learned:
1. Visit The Co-Operative first - that will give you a good idea of pricing on products such as carpets, ceramics, etc.
2. Do not buy the first thing you see unless you really love it or you can get it for a really good price. You will see the same thing again and again so you miss out - unless of course it is a genuine antique and very rare.
3. Be prepared to haggle. Decide on what you are prepared to buy and stick to your price. If it is too low they won't sell it to you. Trust me, the will only sell when there is profit to be made.
4. Keep up the water...keep your body hydrated. Water ranges in price - grande size (1.5litres) for 10dh is the going rate. Tourist spots such as near the Office Tourisme outside the medina we paid 12dh for a small bottle of water.
5. Footwear - I was told to wear runners etc. but my Birkenstocks have been worn every day. Comfortable and cool.
6. Eating food at night in the main market place Jemaa el-Fna is fine - head to the stalls that have the most people. The locals always know where to eat. Our riad owner recommended stall Number One.
7. Do NOT eat fish unless in an upmarket restaurant. Marrakech is not near the sea. Need I say more?
8. If budgeting most sights are about 10dh - 20dh per person entry.
9. Most important: when booking your trip please check your dates for Morocco's religious holidays. Eid is like our Christmas and most things are closed. Stall holders are off killing their sheep and feasting on lamb with their families.
10. Book your day tour in advance if you are only in the city for a few days. The idea of booking via your hotel is great if you have time at your disposal. We could have enjoyed a day trip to Essouria while Marrakech 'slept'.
11. The Hop On Hop Off bus is a good way of getting to know Marrakech - just don't rely on punctuality.
1. Visit The Co-Operative first - that will give you a good idea of pricing on products such as carpets, ceramics, etc.
2. Do not buy the first thing you see unless you really love it or you can get it for a really good price. You will see the same thing again and again so you miss out - unless of course it is a genuine antique and very rare.
3. Be prepared to haggle. Decide on what you are prepared to buy and stick to your price. If it is too low they won't sell it to you. Trust me, the will only sell when there is profit to be made.
4. Keep up the water...keep your body hydrated. Water ranges in price - grande size (1.5litres) for 10dh is the going rate. Tourist spots such as near the Office Tourisme outside the medina we paid 12dh for a small bottle of water.
5. Footwear - I was told to wear runners etc. but my Birkenstocks have been worn every day. Comfortable and cool.
6. Eating food at night in the main market place Jemaa el-Fna is fine - head to the stalls that have the most people. The locals always know where to eat. Our riad owner recommended stall Number One.
7. Do NOT eat fish unless in an upmarket restaurant. Marrakech is not near the sea. Need I say more?
8. If budgeting most sights are about 10dh - 20dh per person entry.
9. Most important: when booking your trip please check your dates for Morocco's religious holidays. Eid is like our Christmas and most things are closed. Stall holders are off killing their sheep and feasting on lamb with their families.
10. Book your day tour in advance if you are only in the city for a few days. The idea of booking via your hotel is great if you have time at your disposal. We could have enjoyed a day trip to Essouria while Marrakech 'slept'.
11. The Hop On Hop Off bus is a good way of getting to know Marrakech - just don't rely on punctuality.
Wednesday, October 16, 2013
Marrakech day two
Internet in this part of the world is a little tricky. This city is one crazy melting pot and a must visit on everyone's "destinations" bucket list. The people are beautiful. Their smiles shine like sunshine. So far we've circumnavigated the souks (no, you don't need a guide), we've bought a carpet from The Co-Operative (money goes back to the Berbers not the Medina middle-men), we've purchased a whole lot of powdered 'stuff' and paid too much to an overly persuasive local (no surprise) in the Jewish Quarter (mellah) as well as a few momentos from a small 'store' en route to the mellah and paid too much once again. As the days roll on I have discovered I need a thicker skin but when everything is so cheap how can you try and bring them down further without feeling some element of westerner guilt? I have discovered some bargaining traits (perhaps albeit too late) which I will share on this blog mid-November. In the meantime, some memories captured by the camera so far...(have yet to upload images by John Montague aka Monty! His images will be uploaded mid-November and can be viewed at www.miimages.com.au)
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